5 reasons - why I surf..
Posted: Mar 07 2015
Surfing keeps you fit, but its also something that provides a bit of excitement. One of the best buzzes I have had is riding a wave a little outside my comfort zone. As you get older its always hard to find good ways to scare yourself. And you should, because fears encroach on all of us and you need to keep pushing against them so you dont get too old too fast.
Surfing isn't something you can do when suits. You have to work with mother nature, the weather systems, tides and sand banks. Its a good reminder that some other things, like work, phones, and being too busy, just dont matter. You just have to drop things and go.
#3 Endless Progression
If you like me, when I know I can do something - it's not long before I'm bored. Surfing has a endless progression. So thats a big advantage for a sport that you can do for a very long time. Surfing also is a relatively low impact sport, so keeps you fit and strong with minimal wear and tear on your body.
Like all things, we need reason. Reason to be thankful for what we have. When life throws you curve balls it's nice to have some constants. Surfing is my constant, no matter what happens in my life. I can get a plane ticket and I can be transported to a beach, with a board and some like minded people and be thankful for what I do have.
We all need to belong, and not everyone fits in the boxes that your society has for people. Surfing community is global, and is based on a pastime that connects energy that travels the globe. Surifng is like a global tribe, who's connection is the waves we ride.